keywords:Worth, fashion, Paris, France, fashion fairs, Eiffel tower influence on fashion, history, 1800's, 1900


dress.gif - Carol Sutton's Worth Dressing Painting© Worth Dress by Carol Sutton ©

A little history of my source material and the story of how I came to paint the Worth ironwork dress.




Eiffel Towermini Eiffel Tower photograph 3dflagsdotcom_franc2ws.gif, france wave flag

Influence on Fashion

Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895), who was the first dress maker to market himself as an artist, even posing for Nadar to photograph him in his artist beret (Worth also at times wore a black skullcap), and moreover making dresses that were not on client commission from a particular client, but rather aimed at his own high standards and distributed through secondary merchandising sources as well, that is ready made, as opposed to custom made. These bold and innovative designs were created for no particular woman in mind, but would rather be wished for by all women who wanted the top fashion designer's latest inventions. Charles Worth 's radical contribution to fashion was adding a label, his own label inside his dresses, and he was the first designer to do this.Worth's sons, Jean-Philippe and Gaston, carried on the label after the death of their father and the enormous export business in a large part due to American clients. These dresses would care the Worth label.
Charles Frederick Worth died in 1895, therefore this ironwork dress design was probably the eiffeltower_waving_md_wht.gifwork of his son Jean-Philippe Worth. Jean-Philippe Worth made this heavy white silk satin voided with black velvet in an Art Nouveau scroll design around 1900. The building of the 1000 foot high Eiffel Tower Eiffel Tower photographat this time could have also been a major influence on the keen interest in ironwork and could have played into detail of Charles Frederick Worth dress, circa 1900Jean-Philippe Worth's design of an ironwork dress. By June 30, 1887 the towers foundations were finished; these included radically inventive hydraulic jacks for adjusting the pier angle of each tower, so that the platform girders could be kept in perfect alignment. This hydraulic jack set was in itself a new feat of engineering. The tower steel girders were beginning to rise in July 1, 1988, capturing the imagination of not only all those who lived in Paris but the entire world. Audacious, optimistic, and innovative design was ripe in the air.
Not only was the young Jean-Philippe Worth influenced by Art Nouveau scroll design, but I claim that he was also influenced by the building of the Eiffel Tower and he was most probably one among those many citizens of Paris that visited the new site. Roaming and walking on the tower platforms he would have seen many swirling curvy scroll designs. Inside the tower Jean-Philippe experienced the black and shadowy interlocking ironwork forms, by contrast when glancing outward he saw the vast Paris urban city landscape spreading out from all directions round the tower. The Eiffel Tower was being readied for the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris which lasted for six months. Just imagine that Jean-Philippe Worthanimated 2 mean with gears behind their heads -gearhead icon by ?? author? was hard at work on his ironwork forms, only this time out of velvet instead of steel. These same curved forms are found in the closeup tower motifs. By the time the next fair rolled around, The Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900 , the house of Worth, or Maison Worth, was ready to exhibit a drawing room display that included wax figures posed and dressed in Worth fashion.They were the only house to do this type of exhibition at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris. Earlier another fair attracted world attention; fabric, textile, and fashion interest was high at the time of the Berlin Fabric Exhibition in 1896. Click below to see some wonderful antique postcards and learn the story of this Berlin Fabric exhibit and see an entire table list of the world fairs.

 Gem_Blue.gifWorld Fairs that had an effect on fashionGem_Blue.gif

Fair date where elsewhere & etc. timeline:

Berlin Fabric Exhibition-

had vintage postcards-NO LONGER


Berlin, Germany


CocaCola invented in Georgia,USA-/Modern Olympics founded,Paris-/Labor riots Chicago
Paris Exposition Universelle (Eiffel Tower built for this) 1889 Paris, Franceflag_france.gif Mehring & Minkowski use insulin for treatment of diabetes
Chicago Exhibition 1893 Chicago, Illinois, USAusa_flag_zheimer.gif Art Nouveau appears in Europe
Brussel Exhibition 1897 Brussel, Belgiumbelgium_flag.gif Ross discovers Malaria bacillus-/New Buchanan-Gordon dress for pearl divers invented (Australia & London)*
Paris Exposition Universelle(Maison Worth Exhibit of English drawing rooms, wax mannequins, and Worth fashion.) 1900 Paris, Franceflag_france.gif Sigmund Freud's book-'The Interpretation of Dreams"' published-/discovery of Minoan culture in Crete


I did not used the Metropolitan dress as my source and in fact have never seen the original garment, but found a photography of it in 1988, while on a summer visit to my parents home in Norfolk, Virginia, in a magazine.gifmagazine of my Dad's, 'Connoisseur', (January 1988, volume 218, Number 912, on page 53) ; an article by Anne Hollander, "Old masters of Fashion" (The same Anne Hollander who wrote the book, 'Seeing Through Clothes',1975, Avon Press.), photographed by Kenro Izu. Kenro Izu astounding photograph of this dress made to look as if were ironwork was what I used as my source material. Here was a guy (Worth) who lived a hundred years ago and he too had been looking at ironwork and had actually gone ahead and made this ball gown of black velvet as the ironwork . I started out with a few ink and acrylic sketches and six months later did the series of Worth dress paintings on canvas.
by C.S.
A related magazine - 'magazine.gifConnoisseur', (January 1988, volume 218, Number 912, on page 53) ; an article by Anne Hollander, "Old masters of Fashion"
A related book flatbook.gif- The Opulent Era, Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat'. by Elizabeth Ann Coleman
Publisher- Thames and Hudson and The Brooklyn Museum I989
ISBN 0-500-01476-0 Clothbound
A related book flatbook.gif- 'Seeing Through Clothes',by Anne Hollander, this book, on page 356, has a photographic comparision of Charles Frederick Worth c. 1880, composer Wagner,circa 1870, and painting self-portrait by Rembrandt van Rijn, 1640. The illustration shown is an engraving made from a photograph by Nadar of Charles Frederick Work, (from the collection of the London Radio Times Hulton Picture Library, London, England ); sporting his artist beret and furred robe.
Avon Press,1975,
ISBN 0-380-48777-2 paperbound
another related web.gif or internet site -Beverley Birks Couture Collection-by Camrax Inc., has a French flag_france.gifpage, Vionnet, Pignat, Worth, Patou, Callot Soeurs, Augustabernard, etc., many lovely images and links to other countries fashion image only,not much infomation.
at -

Not available now -Yvonne's Place for Crossdressers
3dbullit.gifThis unique site has a page that shows front and verso views of gown by Emile Pingat (1860-1896), 1867. Quote from Yvonne's web site:"This striking ball gown was made in Paris in 1867 by Emile Pingat, who worked from 1860-1896. The fabrics are silk faille and silk tolle. The collar and the back are accented with seed pearls."
3dbullit.gif A afternoon dress by Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895),date 1873. Quote from Yvonne's web page listed below plus photo of mauve Worth Dress { Mauve -A color the 19th Century was crazy about. SEE Four MAUVE BOOKS listed below:} : "This afternoon dress was the favorite of the exhibit. It was made by Charles Fredrick Worth (1825-1895) in Paris around 1873 and was owned by Mary Augusta Green de Camp Corning, who wore it on her honeymoon with Edwin Weld Corning, the youngest son of Erastus I. The couple lived in Saratoga, New York.
According to the Metroland article, "Worth is considered to be the 'founder' of French haute couture" and notes that Worth "claims the dubious distinctions of being the first to show seasonal collections and to put labels in his clothing". Emile Pingat, who made the red gown shown on the previous page, was a rival of Worth's at the time."
was: -

browse.gif- 4 related books flatbook.gif- on the color MAUVE - suggested by Carol Sutton

Gem_Blue.gifA color the 19th Century was crazy about.

3dbullit.gifsubtext on Stephen Crane and The Third Violet

A related book flatbook.gif- 'The Mauve Decade'- American Life at the End of the Nineteenth Century. by Thomas Beer
Publisher- Garden City Publishing Co., Inc. , Garden City, New York, 1926
before Library of Congress numbers or ISBN numbers /Clothbound
Purchased from: Wilson's Book Shop, just off Hampton Blvd., in Norfolk, Virginia, December 1987, [Originally owned by: Edgar Montilliam{?} Woolley, of Saratoga Springs, N.Y., A decorative bookplate of a man on horseback riding up towards a Victorian building, with various folks scattered about the street-scape reads: "Monty Woolley - Ex Libris."
Excerpt from page pagelinks.gif46: Thomas Beer: Chapter 3- "The World's Fair definitely set afire the suffragists. Without doubt and in spite of some ferocious squabbles, Mrs. Potter Palmer and the Board of Lady Managers had shown great competence. At receptions of the Woman's Club in Chicago there had been a parade of quietly effective professional women -- Jane Addams, Florence Hunt, Jane Logan and the rest. Suffrage now woke with a roar. Bills to enfranchise women were offered in New York and in other eastern States. "
A related book flatbook.gif- 'Mauve-How one man invented a colour that changed the world'. by Simon Garfield
Publisher- Faber and Faber 2000
ISBN 0-571-20197-0 / Clothbound/ illustrated
Purchased: Toronto, Ontario, 2000
Quote: from the dust jacket {another Fashion word-dust jacket: "A removable paper cover that protects the binding of a book, also called book jacket" [Funk & Wagnalls Standard Desk Dictionary]}:
"But in 1856 a chemist called William Perkin discovered a way to mass-produce colour in a factory.
Perkin found mauve by chance, at the age of eighteen, working on a treatment for malaria in his tiny home laboratory in London. Instead of artificial quinine he made a dark oily sludge, but it was a sludge that turned silk in a beautiful light purple. The colour was unique and became the most desirable shade in the fashion houses of Paris and London. "end quote on dust jacket.
A related book flatbook.gif- 'Harold and the Purple Crayon'. by Crockett Johnson
Publisher- Harper and Row, Publishers, 1955
Library of Congress number 55-7683 / Clothbound
Gift: from my deceased good friend, Dolores Montgomery and her husband Jim Montgomery: "Carol, May all your crayons be forever magic, Love, Dolores & Jim, 3 September 1971, Toronto.
Excerpt from the last pagepagelinks.gif : Crockett Johnson-"The purple crayon dropped on the floor . And Harold dropped off to sleep."
A related book flatbook.gif- 'The Third Violet'. by Stephen Crane [Born: November 1, 1871--Died: June 5, 1900]
[By the same author: The Red Badge of Courage; The Little Regiment; Maggie: A Child of the Streets; The Black Riders.{verse}]
Publisher- London, William Heinemann, 1897; 1st English Edition,
before Library of Congress numbers or ISBN numbers /Clothbound
Purchased from: David Mason Books, Toronto, Ontario, 1987, read: July 20 to 23rd, 1987. Mine is damaged and rebacked. I would scan in my book cover but it has been re-backed.
{What if his Mom had stopped having children after she had thirteen? - Crane was "the youngest of fourteen children"*.}
Gem_Blue.gifExcerpt from THE THIRD VIOLET, page pagelinks.gif134: Stephen Crane: "Purple Sanderson lived in this room, but he usually dined out. At a certain time in his life, before he came to be a great artist, he had learned the gas-fitter's trade, and when his opinions were not identical with the opinions of the art managers of the greater number of New York publications, he went to see a friend who was a plumber, and the opinions of this man he was thereafter said to respect. He frequented a very neat VIOLET.JPGrestaurant of Twenty-third Street. It was known that on Saturday nights Wrinkles, Grief, and Pennoyer frequently quarrelled *with him. {* as is spelled in book}
----As Florinda ceased speaking, Purple entered."
Gem_Blue.gifExcerpt from THE THIRD VIOLET, pagepagelinks.gif 136: Stephen Crane:" We might throw Purple out,' said Grief, with an inspired air. 'That would stop all this discussion.' "
[image credit: Violet Lane org at [ NOT VALID URL - AUG 2005]]
Gem_Blue.gifThe Third Violet was written in 1897, when Stephen Crane was age twenty - six; and he would be dead in only three years later.
Quote: from above site: "1897--Attempting to carry contraband to Cuban rebels, Crane and the vessel the Commodore were shipwrecked off the Florida coast; these experiences caused him to write "The Open Boat". Crane reported for the New York Journal and Westminster Gazette during the brief Greco-Turkish War. He also published The Third Violet, a story about Crane's love for an Akron, Ohio woman named Nellie Crouse."
More on Nellie Crouse plus a photograph of her standing beside a little dog, on the DSM STEPHEN CRANE_AKRON PAGE- at: - NOT ACTIVE 2012
Gem_Blue.gifbook for sale: ;Love Letters to Nellie Crouse STEPHEN CRANE 1954

3dbullit.gifA BRIEF GENEALOGY of Stephen CRANE by Carol Sutton:
Surname: Crane
Given names: Stephen
Gender: Male
Father: Reverend Jonathan Townley CRANE {Methodist Minister}; {Name: Jonathan TOWNLEY , Rev. , D.D. Crane, son of William Crane and Sarah Townley ;Birth: 1819 in Connecticut Farms, NJ
crane.jpg, photo of Stephen Crane , author of The Third Violet and other books and short storiesMother: Mary Helen PECK {Crane};born: 10 APR 1827, Wilkes Barre, Luzerne, Pa and died:7 DEC 1891, Patterson, Passaic Co, New Jersey; the daughter of : Father: Rev.George PECK born: 8 AUG 1797 in Middlefield, Otsego, NY and died: Death: 20 MAY 1876 in Scranton, PA; and her Mother: Mary MYERS,daughter of Esq. Philip Myers of Kingston, Pennsylvania ; Married: 18 JAN 1847 in Pennington/Hopewell, Mercer, NJ to Jonathan Townley, D.D. CRANE.
Birth: November 1, 1871, in Newark, New Jersey
Death: June 5, 1900, in Badenweiler, Germany; age 29
Cause of death: tubercular hemorrhage, tuberculosis; then called consumption,
Buried: Hillside Cemetery, , New Jersey {Source: Contact: Rick Swayne <>}

PHOTO OF STEPHEN CRANE AS A YOUNG MAN * image source credit: Kingwood College Library at
[Source book: The Portable Stephen Crane by Joseph Kastz]

AND FOR LOCATION AFFECTING CRANE's WORK {More biography}{Location: Port Jervis, Orange County, New York. An inland port, Port Jervis is beside the Delaware River, Interstate Highway #84, Exit #1.}:
Also visit: web.gif, tiny yellow word : webStephen Crane's Roots in Port Jervis, New York, article by Killeen Quick at

web.gif, tiny yellow word : webStephen Crane Society: Bibliography 1980-1995; at [ NOT VALID URL - AUG 2005]
*Fried, Michael. "Realism, Writing, and Disfiguration in Thomas Eakins's Gross Clinic, with a Postscript on Stephen Crane's Upturned Faces." Representations 9 (1985): 33-104.
A related book flatbook.gif- Fried, Michael. Realism, Writing, Disfiguration: On Thomas Eakins and Stephen Crane. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1987.

Gavin Walker, English 268, Prof. Christiansen, March 26, 1998,The Third Violet by Steven Crane;-PLOT: The story starts off with the main character, Billie Hawker, [ NOT VALID URL - AUG 2005]
Quote from Gavin Walker:
"All his friends see Billie as being distracted and seemingly not true to his character. One catches him
taking out two violets that he had preserved carefully from his vacation. One of the violets he had was
dropped by Miss Fanhall on the tennis court, and the other he was given by her on their last evening
together. His mind is caught drifting on thoughts of those summer days spent with her. Billie finds
himself frustrated and without the ability to paint as well as he had before."



humming_birds_hovering_md_clr.gReaders are asking for URL's of Worth Perfume

or Purfum Worth

for both Men and Women. Carol Sutton is happy to provide this information.

Worth for men

(Very difficult to find.)

THE PERFUME MART-- type: Worth , into search box.
Worth Pour Homme by Parfums Worth for Men
3.3 oz. Eau de Toilette Spray

"Description: A sparkling, bright blend of Lavender, provence thyme, mint and anise with lemon, juniper berries, haitian vetiver, patchouli, and sandlewood."
Worth for women
WORTH perfume, "Eau de Toilette- Je Reviens'

dress.gif - Carol Sutton's Worth Dressing Painting©

Worth Dress by Carol Sutton ©


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The Worth Dresses -
Worth Source Story-Eiffel Tower & Fashion -
The Canadian Apron Series -
The Spanish Capes-
The American Apron Series --
The Earring Series- earring 1866 -
The Earring Series- earring 1865 -
book -catalogue edition -
book - standard edition-


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